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Still, Azadi had to balance independence with caution.

She ascended the staircase only when it was clear of neighbors and admonished visiting friends to walk on tiptoes to avoid attracting attention.

In many ways, Mohsen is like the single men you see on dating sites anywhere.

He’s 27 years old, earns good money and wants to meet a hottie.

It had taken four days of hitchhiking to get to Tehran and I was still getting used to a country where I had yet to see another backpacker.

I had accepted that backpacking Iran was going to be a very different experience to traveling in any other country I had visited before.

The number of births per woman of child-bearing age has fallen from 7 in 1980 to 1.8 in 2014 - below Britain's fertility rate, for example, of 1.9.

As a result, the regime is worried about a steady fall in Iran’s fertility rate, which has now settled at Western levels.

I lingered, unsure what to do, aware of the many people around us and the police just across the street, before thinking ‘fuck it’ and pulling her into an alleyway for a cheeky kiss.

She had to leave, of course, and I had plans to check out Iranian Kurdistan.

The regime frowns on Western ideas like dating and this website is part of its campaign to keep strict controls in place.

Nearly half of all Iranians from 18 to 35 are single and Tebyan’s official raison d'être is to help the country escape a ‘marriage crisis’.

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